Abbesses Metro entrance. Most metro entrances have an awning in Art Deco style, such as this one.

Tuesday. I had a great day today. I ended up making the chamber maid happy for stripping the bed of a roommate’s who had checked out. Then I went to Grand Boulevards Metro using different Metro lines I’ve taken so far to go to Hard Rock Cafe. It was so funny, I asked the guy at the desk for directions, and he told me to go to Abbesses Metro (the other close-by metro; I’ve always taken Blanche) and then follow signs to keep walking, that I would be essentially walking to another metro station, though never leaving underground. He also said he almost hated to tell me that because he didn’t want me to get confused. I looked at the metro map, looked at him, then back at the map, and told him, “Okay, but if I don’t come back, please send a search party for me because I’m probably lost underground somewhere.” And I just started to laugh. He looked concerned, which made it all the funnier. I couldn’t get over it: I think of myself as an intrepid traveler and then I balk at walking underground for an extended time. Who am I kidding?

Paris Metro has many more twists and turns underground than the metro in Washington, D.C.

I found Hard Rock Café without any trouble. I couldn’t wait to have a burger lunch. I thought I might get faster service by sitting in the bar area; I was mistaken, for they messed up my order. The inside was gorgeous, and the seating beckoned patrons to sit and enjoy themselves. But as I ate my hamburger and took in the ambiance, I realized I am a lot older than I used to be. When I was younger, going to Hard Rock Café was all the rage (and getting a T-shirt with “Hard Rock Café Paris” and the like, to go with it). But I didn’t feel the same way about it: instead of hearing familiar rock and roll in the background, I heard hard rock blasting in my ears. Hard rock videos played all around the place and I found myself feeling a little out of place. Not a bad thing: it’s okay to realize I’ve changed. It just took me by surprise. I bought a T-shirt before I left since I no longer have my Hard Rock Café Paris shirt that I bought the last time I was in Paris. I also took a few pictures of the exterior.

The Hard Rock Cafe in Paris has an unmistakable exterior and a beautiful interior to go with it.

From there, I just started to walk, and since I saw signs to Charles de Gaulle Etoille, a.k.a. Champs-Elysees, I kept walking. Paris during the day is beautiful, but at night, it is simply breathtaking. I ducked into the Galeries Lafayette just to window shop. The interior design of the place and the seasonal decorations were simply breathtakingly beautiful. I just stood in this massive space and took in the beauty of my surroundings. The French do everything with such style and class. Such beauty makes me glad to be alive. Do the French people know how extraordinarily beautiful their surroundings are? When you live here, do you take it for granted? I don’t think I ever would.

A Christmas decoration at the Galeries Lafayette.

I bought a few magnets of rue signs at sidewalk kiosks. I told Nicdadya about my adventures and how gorgeous the Galeries Lafayette were. She just smiled. I’m tired from walking, and very, very happy – especially since I found my way back to the hostel without any trouble. They won’t have to send a search party for me tonight after all!

Salut!

Abbesses Metro image by Can Stock Photo. All other images by Elsa L. Fridl.

Tuesday. Violet is gone. She left today. I’ll miss talking with her. I’ve been figuring out my phone and looking at Rick Steves’ book. I’ll clean up, reorganize my stuff, make a reservation or two for activities, shower and work out.

I also made a list of people I want to send postcards and certain souvenirs to. In addition, I called LA Fitness and spoke to someone for 55 seconds to get their address.

I organized much of the day. I got lunch/dinner (shrimp, rice, dim sum, drink) at the Asian place I love – gosh, what is the name of their restaurant? — and went food shopping. I got such great deals at the food market! I spent 4 euros 10 for produce – and I bought a lot. I also got salad dressing and gummie bears elsewhere, at a shop in Pigalle.

Later, I came back to the hostel and worked out for 50 minutes. Whew! It felt good to use my weights. I’ll look at my checking account and call it a night.

I miss talking to Violet already.

Salut !

Image by Can Stock Photo.

Joyeuse Saint Patrick!

The City of Light will be The City of Green today.

 Ah, St. Patrick’s Day. For many, it’s a day to wear green and drink Guinness Beer. If you’re in Paris, there are plenty of ways to get in the spirit of Joyeuse Saint Patrick. 

As part of Tourism Ireland’s 7th annual Global Greening initiative, the Sacre-Coeur Basilica and the Roue de Paris (Big Wheel) at the Place de la Concorde, as well as many other buildings in Paris and elsewhere in France will be lit up in green. Take in the light show by walking or perhaps a cruise on the Seine River. (Note: It’s curious that the Eiffel Tower isn’t on the list.)

Paris has plenty of Irish pubs to celebrate the day:

O’Brien’s Irish Pub
77 rue Saint-Dominique
75007 Paris

O’Brien’s Irish Pub is always busy.

Phone: +33 01 45 51 75 87

Hours: Monday – Thursday, Noon – 2:00 A.M., Friday & Saturday Noon – 3:00 A.M., Sunday 5:00 P.M. – 2:00 A.M.

Metro: La Tour-Maubourg or Invalides

Located in the 7th arrondissement a short walk from the Eiffel Tower, O’Brien’s is a reasonably priced pub that was always busy during my last trip to Paris. Besides alcohol, they serve mouth-watering burgers and a different dessert created by their chefs is featured every day.

The Green Goose
19 rue des Boulets
75011 Paris

Phone: +33 09 82 37 73 41

Hours: Lunch: Mon-Fri, 12:00 Noon – 3:00 P.M.; Dinner: Mon-Sun, 6:00 P.M. – 11:00 P.M.; Weekend Brunch: Sat, Sun & Bank Holidays, 11:00 A.M. – 4:00 P.M.

Metro: Rue des Boulets or Nation

Funny enough, this relatively new Irish pub in Paris doesn’t serve Guinness though they do serve handcrafted beers, including……. They also serve a fairly extended lunch and dinner menu, and brunch on the weekends (I have my eye on the Eggs Benedict. Mmmmmmmmm.) The Green Goose is often reviewed as the friendliest pub in Paris.

The Harp Bar (see their Facebook page)
118 boulevard de Clichy
75018 Paris

Patrons enjoying a Celtic game at the Harp Bar.

Hours: 5:00 P.M. – 2:00 A.M. Daily

Metro: Blanche or Place de Clichy

Located next to James Hetfeeld’s Pub at 118 boulevard de Clichy, The Harp Bar is a sports pub featuring a Celtic game always showing on the big screen TVs, a pool table downstairs, and plenty of beer and food. This is a must-stop for any Celtic fan.

How about a dessert? Maison Dalloyau teahouses and patisseries will celebrate the day by dressing up the religieuse (“nun”) pastry — a type of eclair — for St. Patrick’s Day, filled with chocolate coffee cream and a bit of Irish whiskey, topped with a chocolate hat and an edible four-leaf clover.

If the religieuse pastry is too rich for your taste, try a pistachio-flavored macaron (“macaroon”), available at patisseries (“pastry shops”) all over Paris.

Au revoir!

References: “Religeuse,” by Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0. “Celebrating Saint Patrick’s Day: What’s On?” Bonjour Paris, March 8, 2016.

Eiffel Tower lit green by Jerome Bon, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. O’Brien’s Irish Pub by Loren C., Yelp, CCBY 2.0. Image of The Green Goose by TripAdvisor, CCBY 2.0. Image of The Harp Bar from their Facebook page, CCBY 2.0. Image of religieuse pastry (made by Dalloyau) from BonjourParis.com, Google search, CCBY 2.0. Macarons (pistachio and cassis) from Laduree by Jamie Anderson, Flickr, CCBY 2.0.

Today I’m sharing ‘a Dude Food Blogger’s’ Top 10 Foods to eat while in Paris. My reaction: Women will be able to tell it’s a man’s list. (Not that there’s anything wrong with that.)

Source: The Top 10 Foods You Have To Eat In Paris

Sure, American men generally love sandwiches, but what about when they go to Paris? Here is one man’s perspective.

In the midst of my Destination Wedding in Paris series comes February, and with it, St. Valentine’s Day (Saint-Valentin in France): two things that make me think of love. What better way to show your significant other that you love them than to suggest one or more of these Top 10 foods the next time you both visit Paris? I’ve included some additional information with each recommendation; at times, my research about these establishments differs from what appears in the post, which appears to have been published in 2012. I also have pared down the original list somewhat, due to chef changes and brevity.

Psssstttttt….there will be a few other posts having to do with men during the month of February.

Gelatto from Pozzotto.

10. Dessert

*Ice Cream/Gelatto

Pozzetto
39 rue du Roi de Sicile
75004 Paris

Phone: +33 01 42 77 08 64

Hours: 12:15 P.M. – 11:45 P.M., except for Fri & Sat, closing time is 12:45 A.M.

Metro: Hotel de Ville or Saint-Paul

Pozzetto’s ice cream and gelatto is thought to be the creamiest. As recommendations, try Pistachio and Giunduja (chocolate-hazelnut).

Crepes with strawberries and cream.

*Crepes

L’Avant Comptoir
9 Carrefour de l’Odeon
75006 Paris

Phone: +33 01 44 27 07 50

Hours: Monday – Sunday, 12:00 P.M. – 11:00 P.M.

Metro: Odeon

Chef Yves Camdeborde’s Le Comptoir du Relais nearby is a Michelin-selection restaurant. His L’Avant Comptoir has excellent crepes and creme brulee, both staples in France. Try the chocolate crepes with Chantilly cream. Note: While this is a man’s list, one woman I know deeply regretted not having a crepe while in Paris. Keep this in mind, guys! (Please.) (Note: A company website was not available.)

Creme Brulee.

*Creme Brulee

Bistrot Paul Bert
18 rue Paul Bert
75011 Paris

Phone: +33 01 43 72 24 01

Hours: Mon-Thurs 12:00 P.M. – 2:00 P.M. & 7:30 P.M. – 10:30 P.M., Fri & Sat. 12:00 P.M. – 2:30 P.M. & 7:30 P.M. – 11:00 P.M., Closed Sun

Metro: Faidherbe-Chaligny or Rue des Boulets

Bistrot Paul Bert is a Michelin-selection restaurant. The Grand Marnier Souffle is said to be “pretty darn perfect.” (Note: A company website was not available.)

9. Falafel

Your mouth will water just looking at this Falafel sandwich.

L’As du Fallafel
32-34 rue des Rosiers
75004 Paris

Phone: +33 01 48 87 63 60

Hours: 11:00 A.M. – 12:00 A.M; Closed Sat.

Metro: Saint-Paul

Their falafel sandwiches are said to be “the best falafel sandwiches in the world.” They are also Kosher and inexpensive.

8. Splurge Dinner

Perfectly Cooked Fish at Spring Restaurant.

*Spring Restaurant
6 rue Bailleul
75001 Paris

Phone: +33 01 45 96 05 72

Hours: Tues-Sat, 6:30 P.M. – 10:30 P.M., Closed Sun & Mon

Metro: Louvre-Rivoli

Spring Restaurant is a Michelin-selection restaurant. Chef Daniel Rose and his team offer a 4-course prix fixe dinner for 84 euros (which means there is no menu); there is an optional course for 15 euros. The staff is described as “warm and friendly to foreigners.”

Bass Filet with honey and cream of mushroom at Bistro Paul Bert.

*Bistrot Paul Bert
18 rue Paul Bert
75011 Paris

Phone: +33 01 43 72 24 01

Hours: Mon-Thurs 12:00 P.M. – 2:00 P.M. & 7:30 P.M. – 10:30 P.M., Fri & Sat. 12:00 P.M. – 2:30 P.M. & 7:30 P.M. – 11:00 P.M., Closed Sun

Metro: Faidherbe-Chaligny or Rue des Boulets

Lively and boisterous, it is so good you might want to make a reservation 2-3 weeks in advance. The chef offers a prix fixe menu for 18 euros or 36 euros. It is a Michelin-selection restaurant and worth every penny.  (Note: A company website was not available.)

A delectable meal at Le Chateaubriand.

*Le Chateaubriand
129 avenue Parmentier
75011 Paris

Phone: +33 01 43 57 45 95

Hours: Tues-Sat 7:30 P.M. – 10:30 P.M., Closed Sun & Mon

Metro: Goncourt

Le Chateaubriand is a Michelin-selection restaurant, and was voted one of “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” in 2015 by The Diners Club World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, the mechanism used to create the list. Chef Inaki Aizpitarte offers a prix fixe dinner for 65 euros (which changes daily), which blends French, Asian and Latin American culinary influences. Tables can be booked two weeks in advance.

Laduree macaroons.

7. Macaroons (Macarons)

*Laduree
64 boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

Phone: +33 01 42 82 40 10

Hours: Mon-Sat 9:30 A.M. – 8:00 P.M., Closed Sun

Metro: Havre-Caumartin

Laduree is credited with inventing the macaroon in the early 20th century. The Dude Food Blogger has a slight preference for Pierre Herme’s macaroons.

Macaroons from Pierre Herme.

*Pierre Herme (Multiple locations)
72 rue Bonaparte
75006 Paris

Phone: +33 01 43 54 47 77

Hours: Sun-Wed 10:00 A.M. – 7:00 P.M., Thurs & Fri 10:00 A.M. – 7:30 P.M., Sat 10:00 A.M. – 8:00 P.M.

Metro: Saint-Sulpice

Pierre Herme comes from a long line of bakers. He helped Laduree expand their business, and opened his first bakery in Tokyo in 1998; his first bakery in Paris opened in 2002. He now has 10 stores in Tokyo, three in Hong Kong, 11 in Paris, three in London, and an on-line store. The Lime-Basil and the Salted Caramel macaroons are recommended. Hours vary by location.

6. Wine Bar

Wine and dessert at L’Avant Comptoir.

L’Avant Comptoir
9 Carrefour de l’Odeon
75006 Paris

Phone: +33 01 44 27 07 50

Hours: Monday – Sunday, 12:00 P.M. – 11:00 P.M.

Metro: Odeon

Casual and boisterous, L’Avant Comptoir is a zinc bar/bistro owned by Chef Yves Camborde, whose Le Comptoir du Relais nearby is a Michelin-selection restaurant. Did I say “casual”? The menu hangs down from the ceiling on oversized cards! The Jamon (cured ham) with Artichoke Cream on Waffles, and the Duck confit sausage hot dog are recommended. Cost averages 5-10 euros per plate. It is the only restaurant of its kind in Paris. (Note: A company website was not available.)

5. Cheese

Cheese Shop (Fromager) of Laurent Dubois.

Fromager Laurent Dubois (Multiple locations)
47 Ter boulevard Saint-German
75005 Paris

Phone: +33 01 43 54 50 93

Hours: Tue-Sat 8:00 A.M. – 7:45 P.M., Sun 8:30 A.M. – 1:00 P.M., Closed Sun (Hours vary by location.)

Metro: Maubert-Mutalite

Think of France, and many people think of cheese. (Okay, perhaps wine and cheese.) Where better to sample cheese than at Fromager Laurent Dubois’s shop? Laurent Dubois is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (an “MOF”) (“Best Craftsman in France”) in his culinary field of cheese-aging. The shop has cheese consultants who will help you make selections based on your taste preference and when you would like to consume it.

4. Chocolate

A window gazer at Patrick Roger Chocolatier.

*Patrick Roger Chocolatier
108 boulevard Saint-Germain
75006 Paris

Phone: +33 01 43 29 38 42

Hours: Mon-Sun 10:30 A.M. – 7:30 P.M.

Metro: Odeon

Patrick Roger is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) (“Best Craftsman in France”) as a chocolatier. He is known for his unique flavors. Try the half-spheres that are liquid caramel in a thin layer of chocolate.

3. Baguette, Pain au Chocolat, and Pastries

*Baguette

Eric Kayser (Multiple locations)
1 boulevard du Montparnasse
75006 Paris

Phone: +33 01 47 83 75 39

Hours: Mon-Sat 7:00 A.M. – 8:30 P.M., Closed Sun

Pain au chocolat and baguette from Kayser Bakery (Boulangerie).

Metro: Duroc

Eric Kayser is a 4th-generation baker who opened his first bakery in Paris in 1996 at age 32; his bakeries are now world-wide, though each location adapts to local tastes and flavors. You can taste his Midas touch in his flaky breads and pastries.

*Pain au Chocolat

Angelina Tea Room (Multiple locations)
Rive Gauche
108 rue du Bac
75007 Paris
Phone: +33 01 42 22 63 08

Hours: Mon-Thur 9:00 A.M. – 7:30 P.M., Fri & Sat 9:00 – 8:00 P.M., Sun 10:00 – 6:00 P.M. Hours vary by location.

Metro: Palais Royal Musee du Louvre

Angelina has many locations in Paris and abroad; I selected this particular location because it is so close to a metro stop. They were founded in 1903 during the period of Belle Epoche, and their refined interior reflects it. In addition to their excellent pastries, they offer a snacks, large salads, and a lunch menu.

The St. Honore Pastry is made up of puff pastry, cream puffs, whipped cream, and caramelized sugar.

*St. Honore Pastry

Cake Shop in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel
251 rue Saint Honore
75001 Paris

Phone: +33 01 70 98 74 00

Hours: Mon-Sun 11:00 A.M. – 8:00 P.M.

Metro: Concorde

You might think that a pastry shop located within a hotel wouldn’t be particularly outstanding. The Cake Shop in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel will change your mind. Perhaps it had to be persuasive: It’s located at the entrance to Camelia, the hotel’s Michelin-guide restaurant; Chef Thierry Marx also has a Michelin 2-star restaurant, Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx, within the hotel. In addition, the street name, Saint Honore, is the patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs.

Le Beurre Bordier butter is expensive but worth it.

2. Butter, specifically Le Beurre Bordier

Described as “the Ferrari of butter,” it is also said to be dangerous: one bite of it on a slice of baguette and you might finish the entire package. It has everything you love about butter x 10: a little more salt, a higher fat content, and silky smooth. Here is a list of a few places you can purchase it in Paris.

More than any other entry, this one convinces me The Dude Food Blogger is a true food connoisseur, for what is the best bread without the best butter to go with it?

1. Caramels

Jacques Gengin’s Mango Passion Caramels.

*Jacques Genin Chocolatier
133 rue de Turenne
75003 Paris

Phone: +33 01 45 77 29 01

Hours: Closed Mon, Tues-Fri & Sun, 11:00 A.M. – 7:00 P.M., Sat 11:00 A.M. – 8:00 P.M.

Metro: Oberkampf

The Dude Food Blogger would pick Jacques Genin if he had to pick one place to do his caramel shopping. Try the natural caramel and the ginger caramel.

Chocolates at Patrick Roger Chocolatier.

*Patrick Roger Chocolatier
108 boulevard Saint-Germain
75006 Paris

Phone: +33 01 43 29 38 42

Hours: Mon-Sun 10:30 A.M. – 7:30 P.M.

Metro: Odeon

One look at Patrick Roger’s website and you know he’s not your ordinary chocolatier. But then, he’s a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) (“Best Craftsman in France”), so of course he stands out. So do his caramels.

Bon Appetit!

References: “Pierre Herme,” Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0. “Eric Kayser,” Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0. “Belle Epoche,” Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0.

Image of ham sandwich by Viewminder, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of Pozzotto gelatto from Pinterest (Findeatdrink.com), CCBY 2.0. Image of crepes with strawberries by Mingerspice, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of creme brulee by Austin Matherne, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of Fallafel by Robert Occhialini, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of perfectly cooked fish at Spring Restaurant by Margaret L., Yelp, CCBY 2.0. Image of bass filet with honey and cream of mushroom at Bistro Paul Bert by Kevin Phua, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of meal at Le Chateaubriand by Kok Chin & Sarah Gan, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image Laduree macaroons from Sophiasbaking.blogspot.com, CCBY 2.0. Image of macaroons from Pierre Herme by NuRIDOL, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of wine and dessert at L’Avant Compton by Robert Young, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of Fromager Laurent Dubois’s cheese shop by John Kroll, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of window gazer at Patrick Roger Chocolatier by John Kroll, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of pain au chocolat and baguette from Kayser Bakery by Sun Brockle, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of St. Honore pastry from the cake shop in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel from Pinterest, CCBY 2.0. Image of Le Beurre Bordier butter by Christabelle, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of Jacques Gengins Mango Passion Caramels from Pinterest (the-cooking-of-joy.blogspot.com, CCBY 2.0. Image of chocolates at Patrick Roger Chocolatier by John Kroll, Flickr, CCBY 2.0.

If you want to have lunch after a visit to Sacre-Coeur or simply want an oasis from crowds in the 18th arrondissement, La Maison Rose offers authentic French food in a beautiful setting.

La Maison Rose (“The Pink House”) has carved out its own space in the 18th arrondissement. Located at the corner of rue des Saules & rue de l’Abreuvoir, its pink exterior set against a block of white buildings is hard to miss. You can sit outside, on both sides of the street — just look for the pink tables — or inside: either way, you’ll enjoy an authentic French meal in relative quiet.

If you sit inside and enjoy the stucco walls with vintage artwork and lighting, don’t be surprised if you hear voices of the past whisper in your ear: the restaurant has been frequented by many artists over the years such as Pablo Picasso, Gertrude Stein, and Maurice Utrillo, who painted La Maison Rose before the second story was added.

La Maison Rose in Montmartre, painted by Maurice Utrillo before the second story was added.

There is something for everyone at La Maison Rose. Their offerings to savor include: Magret de canard (Duck breast), Escargot, Pork Tenderloin, Salmon, Roast Chicken with Rice, French Onion Soup, Spaghetti Bolognese, Nicoise Salad and Caesar Salad. Remember that Les Entrees are the American version of appetizers, so expect small portions. (Les Plats are Main Courses.) The restaurant also offers options suitable for children, such as a Cheeseburger with Frites (French Fries). Finish your meal with a sweet crepe, such as Creme Caramel, Mousse au Chocolat (Chocolate Mousse), au Nutella (Nutella), or avec Fraises (with Strawberries).  If you want only a glass of wine with your meal, ask for un verre de vin (a glass of wine). Otherwise, you might get a pichet (pitcher) of wine.

One oddity: La Maison Rose does not take credit cards of any kind, only cash. There is an ATM not too far away.

Paris is pricey, and La Maison Rose is a respite from the crowds in the middle of a very touristy area. You’re paying not only for authentic French food, but for the haven of quiet. After walking all day, La Maison Rose is just the place to recharge before going on your next adventure — perhaps taking in a cabaret show at the nearby Lapin Agile.

La Maison Rose
2 rue de l’Abreuvoir
75018 Paris
01 42 57 66 75

Closest metros: Lamarck-Caulaincourt or Abbesses

Bon Appetit!

Photograph of La Maison Rose by CanStockPhoto. Image of Maurice Utrillo’s La Maison Rose painting found on Pinterest, CCBY 2.0.