Paris Trip Day 6

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The Champs-Elysee is framed by the Ferris wheel of Paris (Roue de Paris) at one end, and the Arc de Triomphe is at the other. Beautiful by day, magnificent at night.

The Champs-Elysee is framed by the Ferris Wheel of Paris (Roue de Paris) at one end, and the Arc de Triomphe at the other. Both are beautiful by day, magnificent at night.

Sunday. I had a great day today. I came back from Gold Hotel with little trouble, put my things down, and went and had a leisurely brunch at Cafe Bruant, near Plug-Inn. While there, I met a Parisian named Emile. We talked a lot, such as about the differences between Paris and L.A. He told me liked Paris much better: like many French people I’ve met, he said Americans only seem to be interested in making money – not enjoying life and the relationships we have with others. He also told me about his father’s business making luxury sheets and other things for the bedroom. He told me he is a writer. He spoke very good English, yet apologized for it. I wondered if he was angling for us to spend some time together, when all of a sudden his demeanor changed and he said he had to go. (What did the woman sitting next to me do?) He gave me directions to get to a gym, and I wondered if I can follow them. Before he left, he reminded me to go to the photography exhibit today at Grand Musee.

Parisians sit outside to eat and talk regardless of the weather. Relationships are what matter, not the weather.

Parisians sit outside to eat and talk regardless of the weather. Relationships are what matter, not the weather.

The exhibit was huge! I saw what I could in 2 ½ hours. I was exhausted from concentrating. I decided to go walking along the Champs-Elysees and look at the Christmas exhibits, where people sell their wares in outdoor kiosks. In French I ordered a crepe with Grand Marnier. I hate to toot my own horn, but it felt great to see the woman’s eyes light up when I was able to order in French. On the other side of the street, I talked with a Moscovite about the lacquer boxes that he was displaying. I told him about the lacquer boxes I saw while I was in Moscow. He talked to me at length about where and how they are made. He seemed to enjoy talking about his homeland. He smiled when I said “spasibo” as I parted, and as I walked away I knew if I could have a superpower it would be to speak any language at any given moment. It makes people feel so validated to speak to them in their own language.

The Grand Musee, also called the Musee du Grand Palais, where the Photography Exhibit was held.

The Grand Musee, also called the Musee du Grand Palais, where the Photography Exhibit was held.

I walked some more along Champs-Elysees. I finally took the Metro back to the hostel, and grabbed some take-away chicken and rice from a Japanese restaurant nearby that I just know I’m going to be a regular at while I’m here. I’m exhausted. I want to remember to read about dinner cruises to see if I really want to go to the one I picked out before my trip; regardless of which one, I’ll need to book it online. I also want to read over how to get to London in Rick Steves’ book.

I have to remember to be unafraid to be true to who I am here. At home, I feel pressured not to be as feminine as I feel inside; Parisians aren’t like that. They accept my best self here. I love being here. I also need to remember my prayer time in the A.M.

 

Salut.

Paris Trip Day 4

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canstockphoto18683677

Friday. I moved into another room with a skylight and only one other person, Violet. She and I had a long talk, during which I told her many of the basics of my situation. She told me she believed another country calls the shots in the U.S. and that the U.S. is run by an oligarchy, including corporations. (Perhaps I should say she is not from the U.S.) Intriguingly, I recently spoke with U.S. citizens who told me the same thing. She further said that if you put a group of people in a room, all from different countries, including the U.S., there would be a “heaviness” about us that we don’t see because we’re too close to it. She is so perceptive! She also asked me if I thought of going public about my situation, and suggested I have oral surgery as well. I told her it’s a matter of finding a dentist who will pull a tooth without asking the reason for my request, and whom I can trust. It isn’t so much that I can’t trust dentists — after all, my father was a dentist — but my situation requires me to be extra cautious.

It usually rains rather than snows in Paris, which is okay by me. I love the rain.

It usually rains rather than snows in Paris, which is okay by me. I love the rain.

I felt very lethargic, possibly because of the rain (though I love rain). I didn’t get out of the hostel until about 4:45 P.M. I ate at Le Basilic again: tomatoes and mozzarella skewer, cod with spinach in a light sauce, bread, a glass of wine (Pinot Noir, a new favorite) and cappuccino. Culinary heaven. The French really know how to eat and live. I saw Violet out with friends. Later, Violet went to Moulin Rouge for a performance. I went to bed, though first I organized for my night at the Gold Hotel (tomorrow).

 

Salut.

Paris Trip Day 3

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I love travelling, but sometimes......

I love travelling, but sometimes……

Thursday. I am super-tired. One of my roommates elbowed my bunk bed several times and crinkled her essentially-empty water bottle numerous times during the night. Miss Irritating. It’s times like these I have to remind myself that it was my choice to stay in a hostel so I wouldn’t be alone so much. It wouldn’t be so hard to take if she didn’t seem so negative all the time. She complained about the lack of space. She complained about the breakfast, which I loved, telling me how she has seen “much better spreads” in hostels where there are 20 people to a dorm room, when we have four people to a room here. In fact, she complained so much I asked her why she was staying here: It’s not like anyone is forcing her to stay here. She said she was staying here because her friends were staying here. She seemed nice enough when I met her, but she’s turned into Miss Irritating. I wish I could tell her, PLEASE KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT. I won’t.

The Sephora on the Champs-Elysees is absolutely gorgeous.

The Sephora on the Champs-Elysees is absolutely gorgeous.

I had a pretty good day. I went to Sephora (and Monoprix) to replace the items that went missing; I haven’t decided whether to get Bumble & Bumble hair products. Monoprix is very close by. They’re like a Target in the States, only classier. They sell many types of items. I bought L’Oreal moisturizer, an eye cream, baby lotion. I took the Metro from Blanche to Champs-Elysees to go to Sephora. I admit I had more jitters using the Metro than I did before (probably because of all I have been through), but I know I have to learn to be gentler with myself. I’ve been through a lot. I’m here to recuperate and enjoy Paris. The Sephora on the Champs-Elysees is HUGE – it must be at least 10 times the size of the one in Montgomery Mall! And gorgeous! I couldn’t get over how busy they were…like the day after Thanksgiving, every day. It wouldn’t surprise me if they had close to 100 people working. What a nightmare it must be to write a schedule that large. But all the employees were so nice…and they helped me find what I needed.

After Sephora I went walking. I walked so much that I later took a hop-on, hop-off bus tour for 2 hours just to get off my feet. I didn’t have to pay the full price – it was late, and I told the driver I only wanted to get on for an hour or two. We negotiated the price and he told me I could get off in 2 hours. Thirty-nine Euros seemed like a lot to pay for a bus ride no matter how long or how many days it was for.  I’m so tired I’ll wait to get my free weights another day. I made a list of people to send postcards to. I want to remember Nicdadya’s name at the hostel and get Irene’s LA Fitness address for her souvenir. I’ll bet she’ll be surprised.

T-shirt souvenirs are always a good gift.

T-shirt souvenirs are always a good gift.

I need to get a little fruit at the market and spend the heavy change I have. One- and 2-Euros weigh A LOT. Maybe carrying all that change helps to keep French women thin! (If only, right?) I also need to organize my money and put it all in my locker. And pray. And reorganize my stuff. And work on my CV and set up my account for possible teaching jobs. And write Wells Fargo’s international number in my luggage and keep it with my passport.

Let’s hope Miss Irritating doesn’t crinkle her water bottle again tonight. Notes to self: I LOVE TRAVELLING. I’VE LEARNED TO TAKE THE GOOD WITH THE BAD. A BAD DAY IN PARIS IS BETTER THAN A GOOD DAY ANYWHERE ELSE. I like the last statement the best.

Salut.

Paris Trip Day 2

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The first picture I took when I went sightseeing in Montmartre.

The first picture I took when I went sightseeing in Montmartre.

Wednesday. I slept and stayed in bed until just after 2:00 P.M. At 10:00 A.M. I was roused by a roommate who told me I had just missed breakfast! I didn’t want to get out of bed, I was so wiped out from leaving at night and travelling. (I’m not much of a night person.) After showering I went walking to see the neighborhood and take some pictures. I decided I was so hungry I didn’t want to walk around too much before I ate. I found Le Basilic on a strip of land quite close to Plug-Inn Hostel. I was the only patron there it was so early: the French tend to eat fairly late. The food was so good: 2 appetizers, one being salmon with avocado, bread, wine, Perrier, salad, and Cappuccino. All to the tunes of Barbara Streisand and French music playing sweetly in the background. It was fantastic! My first real meal in Paris for this trip, and one of the best meals I’ve ever had. I can’t wait to eat at Le Basilic again.

Inside Le Basilic in Montmartre.

Inside Le Basilic in Montmartre.

I went walking around Montmartre, Pigalle and Clignancourt. Right across the street from the Moulin Rouge I saw a sign peeking through scaffolding for the Gold Hotel. When I walked in, the man at the desk was on the phone. Nonchalantly, I gazed up at a framed piece of paper, and noticed it was a posting of their room rates. I tried not to react when I noticed that a single room was 140 Euros. I knew it was the slow season so I might be able to get a better rate. After he hung up the phone and we greeted each other in French (and then I asked him if he spoke English, which he did), in my best confident yet feminine voice, I told him I would like a room for Saturday, since the place I’m staying at for a month doesn’t have room for me for one night. We talked about what I wanted in an une chamber (room), though I honestly don’t remember if I asked for a King- or Queen-sized bed. I asked whether une chamber avec douche et WC (the room had a full bathroom), and he said “Yes, of course.” (Some don’t.) We talked about everything except price. Finally, I could tell he was weighing how much he was going to charge me. Being the good negotiator I am I allowed him to bring it up and I didn’t rush him. He noticed I didn’t have luggage with me so he couldn’t determine my socio-economic status by the price of my luggage. He gave a good look at me and said, “Seventy Euros for the night.” I told him that was acceptable, though inwardly I was celebrating. He then asked if I wanted breakfast for an additional 10 Euros. I told him no, thank you, since I knew I could get back to the hostel for my free breakfast or grab something on the way back for half that price. He told me he didn’t require me to pay up front and I could cancel if I wanted to. He gave me a piece of paper that said I had a reservation and how much the room was, but it didn’t have the Gold Hotel logo on it; he said I would get that when I checked in. (How odd is that?) I walked out feeling pretty confident, since I was going to stay in a 3-Star Hotel (according to the literature I saw on the wall) for half price.

One of my roommates is here for the Photography Conference & Exhibition I read about before I left the U.S. Great! I told her I would love to come with her, or at least go to the exhibit. She said she might have to stick with her group which is being led by her instructor. I also met a French guy who visited one of the staff; he told me an organization is looking for people to teach English. (!) I need to think of all the things I’ve done that relate to teaching English (like substitute teaching, editing, writing, I’m a published author, I created the Essay Pyramid for international students). Unfortunately, when I went to take a shower I found out that my personal care items weren’t in my backpack…when did they go missing? I’m not happy having to spend money again for my personal care items, but I can’t believe I told myself not to skimp on security and then I did just that. I didn’t want to spend another $10 on a lock, and now I have to spend a small fortune re-buying personal care items. How many times do I have to ignore my own advice before I’ll learn?

I need to remind myself to change $200 to Euros tomorrow before I go shopping.

Salut.

 

Paris Trip Day 1

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Turkish Airlines is the #1 ranked airline in Europe. It is a well-deserved reputation.

Turkish Airlines is the #1 ranked airline in Europe. It is a well-deserved reputation.

Tuesday. I arrived at Dulles Airport last night with too much time on my hands because I didn’t want to take Metro late at night. I read my booklet on my new phone, called T-Mobile a few times with questions, and sat around and waited. Turkish Airlines’ counter didn’t open until a couple of hours before takeoff so I was a bit bored. Once I could check in, I was able to go to the terminal, where there are more places to eat and simply more shops in general. While waiting to board I met a woman named Sharon who is getting married. She is meeting her fiancé in Barcelona. It was nice having someone to talk to at Dulles because I was there for a long time, I’m not much of a night person, and was very tired by the time we boarded. I believe what the experts say: You tend to eat too much when you’re tired. They aren’t kidding!

The flight left Dulles Airport on time at 11:30 P.M. I watched the Jack Ryan movie with Chris Pine and three other movies to make the time go by. (Well, 2 ½ more movies.) My legs felt a bit cramped, and it was much colder in the cabin than I’ve ever experienced before: Good thing I was wearing not only my blue cashmere Pringle V-neck sweater (with a white shirt) but also my black Ann Taylor wool blazer – I would have been freezing without the layers. (Now I sound like a J. Peterman catalogue.) What I couldn’t get over was how much space there was in the overhead compartments! The flight was full, yet there seemed to be plenty of room to be had in the overheads. I can’t remember that ever happening on another airline. The food on Turkish Airlines was very good. I only felt bad because the flight attendants woke up a seatmate so he would eat. He wasn’t too thrilled until he had some wine. A very handsome man was seated behind me. It made the flight more interesting, but I was also a bit suspicious, since he seemed a little TOO interested in me. He was, after all, a lot younger than I am.

We landed in Istanbul for a short lay-over before boarding to Paris. We had a PERFECT flight from Dulles. I couldn’t get over how clean the airport is in Istanbul. No drama, no loud noises. I did notice, however, a man sticking his head into the ladies bathroom to make sure everything was as it should be. I was not the only one who seemed to be a bit taken aback—the women in line seemed a little nervous about having a man putting his head into the ladies room—but they seemed to get over it. (They just eyed him a little suspiciously.) I had a cappuccino and talked to Sharon until I boarded my plane. Everyone around us who was on the flight talked about what a perfect flight it was. No wonder Turkish Airlines is top-rated in Europe. A fun fact I learned: Turkey isn’t part of the European Union so they can’t have a hub in Europe; this is why they have to fly from Dulles (and other cities) to Istanbul, and from there fly to Europe and other destinations.

Meg Ryan and Kevin Kline in a familiar passaage way in Charles de Galle Airport, from "French Kiss."

Meg Ryan and Kevin Kline in a familiar passageway in Charles de Galle Airport, from “French Kiss.”

I arrived at Charles de Gaulle Airport very late and very tired. We had to walk very, very far in the airport to pick up our luggage, and our trip included going up a few escalators. (And my feet were killing me!) We were cautioned not to get into a taxi with any driver who was hanging around the airport. We were told to only get a taxi outside certain doors because they would be legitimate taxis. We queued up and the line seemed to move…fairly quickly. Then it was my turn. The man who was assigning taxis asked me where I was going. I showed him a piece of paper on which I had written the name of my hostel, its address, and phone number. The first taxi didn’t know where it was. I was assigned another taxi and he told the man he THINKS he knows where the hostel is. Only as we started to drive away did I notice, much to my horror, it looked like he didn’t have a credit card machine. I doubted I had changed enough dollars to Euros for the ride. I was correct. He didn’t have a machine and he had to stop at an ATM to allow me to get cash. I was worried that this might be one of the machines that charges an exorbitant fee but it didn’t. I just wish I hadn’t been quite so tired.

Luckily, Plug-Inn Hostel has a huge banner outside its door, so even a weary traveler or cab driver would see it. I got in at 11:30 P.M. The staff person on duty first took my payment for the two nights I reserved. When I found out that my original understanding was correct – the hostel was 26 Euros a night, or $35 – I reserved a bed for the rest of my time here. I paid for that separately, though I was told I would have to stay elsewhere Saturday night because they were completely booked. Not a problem. Then, I was helped to my room and bed. I was in bed within minutes. It was a very smooth check-in process. The common area when you walk in is just as lovely as their pictures on the web. I just know I’m going to love it here at Plug-Inn Hostel.

 

Salut!

 

 

 

Image from “French Kiss” used by permission of Blu-ray.com.

Foreword to 30-Day Paris Trip Diary

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All packed and ready to go to Paris.

All packed and ready to go to Paris.

In previous posts, I shared a “To Do” list to plan a trip to Paris, wrote about how to pick a travel wardrobe and travel gear, and how to pack everything so you can find it. So, it’s time to travel to Paris!

I’m all packed and ready to go. (No, this isn’t my luggage. Remember, I’m trying to advocate using anything but black luggage.)

For the next 30 days, I will be publishing my travel diary that I wrote during my recent trip to Paris, along with additions based on my Filofax daily planner entries, receipts (what I kept), bank statements, cell phone records, and my long-term memory, which is significantly better than my short-term. I can remember beating the two fastest guys in the 100-yard dash in fourth grade, but if you ask me what I had for lunch yesterday I’d probably have to think about it. You will notice I make a lot of references to Rick Steves’ Paris 2014 guide book: I used it extensively during my trip. I can’t say enough good things about the travel advice Rick gives.

Sometimes I’ve talked about how much money I’ve spent and how I feel about it. I don’t go through life putting a price tag on everything because you can’t put a price tag on life experiences. I’ve talked about these experiences as information for my readers. (Hopefully, I have a few by now.) Also, some days I have a lot to say, and other days…not so much.

All names have been changed except for hostel management and public figures.

I make several references to the television program Seinfeld, so if an observation doesn’t make sense, it’s probably a reference to that program.

I make a few references to “Fancy Boy Idiots.” This is actually a pseudonym (or nom de guerre) for a U.S. government agency. I’m sure you can figure it out once you think about it.

Salut.

 

Maps of France, Paris, and the Paris Metro

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If you’re travelling to Paris, you’ll want to orient yourself. Here, I have provided a map of France, Paris, and the Paris Metro, and a little about them.

France

A map of France.

A map of France.

Metropolitan France is divided into 22 regions; those regions are further subdivided into 96 departments. There are an additional 5 regions (divided into 5 departments) overseas. Paris is in the Ile-de-France region (if France was a person, Ile-de-France would be located at the “heart”). Other points of interest include the area known as the South of France (southern France), Cannes, where the Cannes Film Festival is held each May, and the Pyrenees, the Alps, and the Champs-Elysees in Paris, where the Tour de France passes through and finishes.

A rider on the Les Pyrenees.

A rider on the Les Pyrenees.

 

 

 

 

 

Paris

A map of Paris arrondissements.

A map of Paris arrondissements.

The city of Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (administrative districts) arranged in a clockwise spiral, often referred to as a snail shell, though it has always reminded me of The Yellow Brick Road in “The Wizard of Oz,” with the Seine River flowing east-west down the center. The spiral begins with #1 arrondissement in the middle of the city on the Right Bank (north bank) of the Seine. Paris arrondissement numbers are also the last two digits of the district’s postal code, so the 18th arrondissement’s postal code (where I stayed recently) is 75018. You will likely see signs with an arrondissement’s number displayed as Roman numerals, so the 18th arrondissement number would be XVIIIe arrondissement. There are so many Metro stations that Parisians often refer to a location referencing the closest Metro stop.

Paris Metro

The Paris Metro.

The Paris Metro.

The Paris Metro opened on July 19, 1900 during the World’s Fair. It has 303 stations, of which 62 have transfers between lines. There are 16 lines, numbered 1 to 14 with 2 lines, 3bis and 7bis, which are so named because they started as branches of lines 3 and 7. They are now separate lines. Lines are identified on maps by number and color, and direction of travel is indicated by its terminus.

You can use cash or a credit/debit card to buy tickets, which can be used for the Metro, and RER rail and buses (within the city). You can buy single tickets for 1.75 Euros, a carnet of 10 tickets for 13.30 Euros, or a Passe Navigo card for a 5 Euro fee (plus the cost of a small photo of yourself), which is a chip-embedded card similar to a SmarTrip card in the States or an Oyster card in London. The Metro tickets never expire, but it’s best to keep used tickets separate from unused, and keep your most-recently used ticket separate from all others: French police often check for gate-jumpers by asking to see your Metro ticket.  I was stopped at least twice, and the first time I panicked because I had all of my used tickets together, including my most recent one. (I don’t mean to give the impression that trashcans aren’t available. I had collected some from a full day’s sightseeing.)

Navigating the Metro is easy; the hardest part can be finding your destination on the Metro map due to the number of lines. If you start by venturing to attractions close to your lodging, you’ll get the hang of it.

Paris Metro signs are among the most elegant in the world.

Paris Metro signs are among the most elegant in the world.

 

Salut.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Descriptions of maps from Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0. Maps of France, Paris and the Paris Metro courtesy of Flickr, CCBY 2.0.