Paris Trip Day 13

The Eiffel Tower, a catalyst for joy.

The Eiffel Tower is viewed by the world-over as a symbol of France. I have come to view it as also a catalyst for joy.

Sunday. I walked along the Seine River after taking the #30 bus to Trocedero again. I soaked up the energy near the Eiffel Tower and had a take-away sandwich. I love watching people in their excitement being at the Eiffel Tower: they all have such joy on their faces. There are now large stones in front of E.T. that people can stand on and take selfies (what a word!) or regular pictures. I went to the top of the Eiffel Tower again. (!) It never gets boring. It is so awe-inspiring. The views are so gorgeous.

An aerial view of the City of Paris as seen from the Eiffel Tower.

An aerial view of the City of Paris as seen from the Eiffel Tower.

After the Eiffel Tower, I started my journey to the slip of my dinner cruise. I looked and looked and looked and didn’t see what the gentleman from Le Capitaine Fracasse spoke of, a part jutting out from the Seine River, meaning their slip. A French couple saw my distress and offered to help me find the slip. We found it in plenty of time and I waited in line. I struck up a conversation with an American couple. They were here on business and decided to take some vacation time to see Paris. One thing I’ve noticed: Paris brings out the joy in people, because the tourists I speak to all seem to be in great moods, even serene. The line started to get lonnngggggggg; glad I got there early. When I was asked where I wanted to sit I said that I wanted to sit near a window, and I was told it would be an extra 10 euros for a better view. I said no thanks, as I reflected on Rick Steves’ description of the dinner cruise in which he said to “get there early for good seating;” there was no mention of paying more for a good seat. Then I was seated by myself in full view of a rowdy party, and patrons were using my table as a shortcut to get to their table. I nearly left. After all, a dinner cruise isn’t just about the food: the atmosphere is part of what you pay for. First I moved my table next to the table next to me, and a server smiled in recognition of how I was keeping patrons from brushing past me. (Since he saw my distress, why didn’t he seat me somewhere else?) Then I asked if I could sit farther in the back since there was so much space available. (The ship was at most half-full.) I sat next to a French couple who didn’t take their eyes off of each other. I could not believe that this petite woman ate EVERYTHING presented to her, as thin as she was. She ate basically what I did: a tray of 3 appetizers, (including Foie des Grais, which I didn’t eat), fish with potatoes in a light sauce, a tray of 3 desserts, including a puff pastry that was out of this world, and wine and espresso. Culinary heaven.

A Capitaine Fracasse dinner cruise is an elegant way to experience the views along the Seine River.

A dinner cruise is an elegant way to experience the views along the Seine River.

When I disembarked and started to walk, I felt so alive! I happened to exclaim to no one in particular what a beautiful night it was. The response of a French couple who got off the same dinner cruise: “Of course, you’re in Paris!”

I got back to the hostel and found I had a new roommate. I floated off to sleep.

 

Salut.

Paris Trip Day 10

Thursday. Est-ce que je pourrais recuperer mon pantalon? May I pick up my pants? I have to go to the drycleaner today to pick up my black pants. Learning one French phrase at a time is better than none.

I got out a bit earlier today. I’m so tired of getting my hands cold maneuvering my camera and phone that I decided to buy a handbag. It’s a bit large: It has a decorative zipper in the front, a zipper in the back for fast-pack items (change after I buy something), a zippered pocket inside, two large compartments, and two open pockets for my phone and other things I want to keep handy. After I bought it, I took it back to the hostel and left for Pere La Chaise Cemetery. I enjoyed taking the Metro to Gambetta Metro stop, since I was very confident in what I was doing.

I followed Rick Steves’ Pere La Chaise Cemetery Tour for 2 hours.  I entered at the Porte Gambetta entrance and walked along Avenue des Combattant, past World War memorials, and beneath a courtyard, where there was a darkened area (underground) for graves (called “niches”) and I found Maria Callas’ niche, as well as a few others. I then followed Rick’s directions to find the graves of Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein, Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison, Frederic Chopin, and Colette. Just as Rick said, there were lots of cobblestone paths, and they made me walk a bit slower than I am used to (not a bad thing).

I enjoy visiting sites for the sites themselves, but there is also a bit of a thrill to see sites I’ve seen in movies. One of the stories in Paris je t’aime takes place in Pere La Chaise, with Oscar Wilde and his grave being central to the story.

I had a scary encounter in one of the more vast areas of the cemetery, in the World War memorial section. Two guys came up to me within an inch of my face. I thought for sure they were going to rob me of my purse and/or the camera around my neck. I stood rod straight and told them I didn’t speak French very well. They seemed to enjoy taunting me and poking their fingers in my face. They left, and I breathed a huge sigh of relief. I need to remember to email Rick Steves when I get home and let him know he might want to provide an emergency number for police. (He included it, #17 for English-speaking police; I just didn’t see it.)  It isn’t that I don’t generally feel safe in Paris – I do – but I walk alone much of the time, and this was a frightening experience. Better to be safe than sorry.

I had done enough walking and it was starting to get colder. I had an espresso and got on the Metro. I got back to the hostel and immediately did my laundry in the laundry mat around the corner from the hostel. I later had a salad. I chatted with Nicdadya and she helped me with my phrase for tomorrow. Unfortunately, my nose won’t stop running. I have used all kinds of tissue today, and lots of it!

 

Salut!

 

 

“I was only sleeping…” by Stanze, taken on September 30, 2014, courtesy of Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Edith Piaf gravesite courtesy of Parisbuslady.com.

 

Paris Trip Day 9

Champs_Elysees sign_canstockphoto21712583

The Champs-Elysees is in the 8th arrondissement and is one of the most famous streets in the world.

Wednesday. When all else fails, go shopping.

I had a hard time getting myself out of the door of the hostel. I’m tired from the rainy and/or damp cold weather here. At the hostel, I fixed what I call my French lunch: Some type of greens, rice with peas (from the Asian restaurant close to the hostel), red bell pepper, Maille dressing, in a croissant or baguette. Feeling a bit more French from my French lunch I went out and bought some souvenirs for myself and others. Then I walked to Champs-Elysees and went to Sephora. I spoke with someone who works there about wanting to stay in France. She is looking to go to New York to work; she said she is waiting for the Green Card lottery. She was very nice. I got to thinking about how excited she is at the prospect of working in New York: Wouldn’t it be cool if I could get rehired at Sephora, but in Paris, teaching English AND working with makeup and skin care? Talk about a dream job!

I spent a small fortune. I got some great products to replace my missing personal items. To make up for it I’m going to cut back for a few days.

One of the things I’ve been looking forward to most for this trip is to go on a dinner cruise on the Seine River. Since I’ve had to spend so much on replacing items that went missing, I’m going with Le Capitaine Fracasse dinner cruise: according to Rick Steves, it’s supposed to be the budget option at 55 – 80 Euros per person. I made my reservation online today for this coming Sunday.

THE SNORER IS GONE. I happened to mention to someone at the desk about the girl who snored and has been staying in my room, and he just smiled. He said there had been other comments made. I told him I would never think of complaining formally because I knew staying in a hostel there would be the risk of that. We had a good laugh.

I took a bath and soaked. I also used two of my new Christian Dior products (wash, samples of eye creams). I am looking forward to turning out the light, but not before thinking about B.G.: it’s her birthday today. I wonder how she’s doing. I haven’t spoken to her in a long time, but I still think of her on her birthday every year.

Happy Birthday, B.G.

Happy Birthday, B.G.

 

Salut.

Paris Trip Day 6

The Champs-Elysee is framed by the Ferris wheel of Paris (Roue de Paris) at one end, and the Arc de Triomphe is at the other. Beautiful by day, magnificent at night.

The Champs-Elysee is framed by the Ferris Wheel of Paris (Roue de Paris) at one end, and the Arc de Triomphe at the other. Both are beautiful by day, magnificent at night.

Sunday. I had a great day today. I came back from Gold Hotel with little trouble, put my things down, and went and had a leisurely brunch at Cafe Bruant, near Plug-Inn. While there, I met a Parisian named Emile. We talked a lot, such as about the differences between Paris and L.A. He told me liked Paris much better: like many French people I’ve met, he said Americans only seem to be interested in making money – not enjoying life and the relationships we have with others. He also told me about his father’s business making luxury sheets and other things for the bedroom. He told me he is a writer. He spoke very good English, yet apologized for it. I wondered if he was angling for us to spend some time together, when all of a sudden his demeanor changed and he said he had to go. (What did the woman sitting next to me do?) He gave me directions to get to a gym, and I wondered if I can follow them. Before he left, he reminded me to go to the photography exhibit today at Grand Musee.

Parisians sit outside to eat and talk regardless of the weather. Relationships are what matter, not the weather.

Parisians sit outside to eat and talk regardless of the weather. Relationships are what matter, not the weather.

The exhibit was huge! I saw what I could in 2 ½ hours. I was exhausted from concentrating. I decided to go walking along the Champs-Elysees and look at the Christmas exhibits, where people sell their wares in outdoor kiosks. In French I ordered a crepe with Grand Marnier. I hate to toot my own horn, but it felt great to see the woman’s eyes light up when I was able to order in French. On the other side of the street, I talked with a Moscovite about the lacquer boxes that he was displaying. I told him about the lacquer boxes I saw while I was in Moscow. He talked to me at length about where and how they are made. He seemed to enjoy talking about his homeland. He smiled when I said “spasibo” as I parted, and as I walked away I knew if I could have a superpower it would be to speak any language at any given moment. It makes people feel so validated to speak to them in their own language.

The Grand Musee, also called the Musee du Grand Palais, where the Photography Exhibit was held.

The Grand Musee, also called the Musee du Grand Palais, where the Photography Exhibit was held.

I walked some more along Champs-Elysees. I finally took the Metro back to the hostel, and grabbed some take-away chicken and rice from a Japanese restaurant nearby that I just know I’m going to be a regular at while I’m here. I’m exhausted. I want to remember to read about dinner cruises to see if I really want to go to the one I picked out before my trip; regardless of which one, I’ll need to book it online. I also want to read over how to get to London in Rick Steves’ book.

I have to remember to be unafraid to be true to who I am here. At home, I feel pressured not to be as feminine as I feel inside; Parisians aren’t like that. They accept my best self here. I love being here. I also need to remember my prayer time in the A.M.

 

Salut.

Packing Part I: How To Select Your Best Travel Wardrobe and Gear (For Women)

How do you select what to take on a trip? Use a color scheme, pack for your planned activities, and don't take anything with you that you would hate to lose.

How do you select what to take on a trip? Use a color scheme, pack for your planned activities, and don’t take anything with you that you would hate to lose.

You might think that as an experienced traveler I pack the bare minimum wardrobe and personal items for an international trip.

You would be mistaken.

The best way for me to illustrate my packing philosophy is to relate this short exchange I had with a U.S. Customs Agent when I was once randomly selected to have my luggage searched upon my return to the U.S. from an international trip.

He first asked to go through my carry-on:

Customs Agent: “Ma’am, you seem to have everything in here except the kitchen sink.”

Me: “You’re right – that’s in checked luggage.”

Granted, I was coming home from being overseas for a month. Still, I like to be prepared for anything, yet still be able to whiz my way through an airport without feeling encumbered by heavy luggage or lots of it.  How do I do it? Here, I discuss how to make decisions about your travel wardrobe and gear, and in “Packing Part II: Packing So You Can Find It When You Want II (For Women)” I discuss how to pack.

Audrey Hepburn_Blu ray1. Understand your own sense of style. Who do you take after? Do you prefer form-fitting clothes or a looser fit? What’s your color scheme? What kind of neckline do you prefer? What about accessories? It helps to know the answers to these questions, not just in life in general, but while travelling: if you know what you look best in (and feel best in), it helps to streamline your packing decisions.

I am in my early 50s, and my style is drawn from, in broad strokes, Coco Chanel (1950s), Audrey Hepburn, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. I also once saw a montage in a magazine that summed up French style for the masses and which suits me: a good, white blouse, black pencil skirt, Hermes’ scarf, good sunglasses, jeans that fit, an oversized V-neck sweater (with a white T-shirt underneath), lady-like pumps, and a good handbag (as opposed to several cheap ones). I like a classic look: basic color items (black, white and grey) with a few colorful items mixed in, and that are generally interchangeable. I prefer clean lines with some detailing mixed in, such as a bow or piping. Good style needn’t be expensive: the key, really, is knowing what looks good on you and a good fit. I am a “winter” in the Color Me Beautiful color schemes, so cool colors, such as turquoise blue and white, look best on me.

2. Try to blend in with the natives when you travel. You’ll probably feel like you’re more a part of the locale you’re in, and you won’t stand out as an American (or wherever you’re from). While I can only aspire to be as stylish as Parisian women, the fact that I have my own sense of style helps me to blend in.

It helps to do a little research: When I went to Nicaragua to visit someone, I seemed to draw a lot of attention from the locals. I asked my friend what he thought and he told me, “Women here don’t wear shorts; they wear skirts and dresses. People here think you look like a boy.” I was…humiliated? Embarrassed? Taken aback? I might not be sure of how to describe how I was feeling, but I did know he wasn’t the one for me. I had asked him before I travelled to Nicaragua if there was anything I needed to know about visiting there and he said no, other than it was hot. (This was way before the internet.) This was something he should have told me; clearly, he was not culturally sensitive in a pro-active sense.

canstockphoto21307798

A dinner cruise on the Seine River is a very elegant affair. You will want to dress for the occasion.

3. Plan what you will do on your trip, even in general terms, before deciding which items to pack. Since I knew I was going on a dinner cruise and wanted to attend Mass at Notre Dame, I packed a skirt and an acrylic lavender sweater with black piping and bow. I also took a black & white herringbone ¾ sleeved jacket as an alternate to the sweater. I wore the sweater on the cruise and the jacket to Mass.

4. Don’t pack anything you would regret losing. Leave your $300 sunglasses at home and use a cheaper pair: you might save yourself the heartbreak of losing something valuable as well as not becoming a target for pickpockets and robbers. Look nice without being too flashy or too obviously a tourist.

5. Be prepared. Think of how often you use items like a nail file, scissors, heel file, and band-aids. If you use them once a week or more, think of taking them with you.

When I went to the British Isles after I graduated from college, I was one of the few who was really prepared for rain (with not just an umbrella but a foldable rain jacket with a hood) and cool temperatures (Pringle V-neck cashmere sweater and another light sweater). I also carried Neosporin (a guy cut himself shaving and asked for it) and I had plenty of band-aids and Super Moleskin, so I was prepared for foot discomfort after walking so much (others were not). Also, on every commercial flight I have taken except the last one, I have had a bag of Hershey’s Kisses in my carry-on for fidgety children.  Long plane rides are tough enough for adults: they are even harder for small children with short attention spans. When I see a child who is anxious or whimpering seated near me, I ask their parents if I can offer them one, and then do just that. A Hershey’s Kiss – which is to say, a distraction – is often just a child needs to take their mind off how bored or crampy they feel. (And yes, I offer them to adults, too, especially parents.)

6. For about two weeks before you travel, keep track of weather (and now, political) conditions to see what is trending. For the two weeks prior to my last trip to Paris, the temperatures had been in the 40s (Fahrenheit), and I knew Paris doesn’t get quite as cold as Washington, D.C. (that is, normally – anything is possible with global warming). I packed accordingly: a warm scarf and several turtlenecks were a must.

7. No matter the trending weather conditions, always pack several items for the opposite or nearly opposite conditions. Since I was going to Paris during the fall/winter months, this means I would pack at least one short-sleeved top, a light windbreaker jacket (an Anorak, which folds into itself, probably the best travel item I’ve ever purchased), and an umbrella.

8. It’s better to layer items in winter instead of wearing one bulky item that would make you feel too hot. I often wear a V-neck sweater with a white T-shirt (which is actually European influence), and in the case of unusually warm weather I would wear a T-shirt alone. Wearing layers also gives me more options.

The Voltage Valet blow dryer weighs just over 1 pound.

The Voltage Valet blow dryer weighs just over 1 pound.

9. Be patient when buying travel gear: look for detail and read the fine print. I shop until I find just the right travel blow dryer and locks for my baggage. Also, I have an eye for what packs well after taking many trips.

It pays to read the fine print: reading the travel blow dryer box I discovered I had to buy converters separately.

So, using these nine points, my initial wardrobe choices and travel gear for my month-long trip to Paris during winter were as follows.

CHECKED BAG

2 prs. Black pants (1 from Cache, 1 travel pants)

1 black pencil skirt (for Mass at Notre Dame and my dinner cruise)

Black & White Herringbone 3/4-sleeved jacket (a little dressy)

Black Velvet Chico long-sleeved Button-up cardigan

Black & White striped Ralph Lauren long-sleeved blouse (a little dressy)

Black Jones of New York (Cotton) long-sleeved blouse

Black long-sleeved scoop-neck (Cotton) shirt

Black V-neck long-sleeved Ireland (Acrylic) sweater

Black long-sleeved (Cotton) turtleneck

White Long-sleeved (Cotton) shirt

Lavender ¾-sleeved (cotton/nylon) sweater with black detailing and bow

Black & White striped short-sleeved (Rayon/Nylon/Spandex) sweater

Black short-sleeved (Rayon/Cotton) turtleneck sweater

2 White short-sleeved (Cotton) shirts

Black Anorak hooded rain jacket

Blue Under Armor Zippered jacket

Black Cuddl Duds Long-sleeved undergarment

Grey short-sleeved (Rayon/Nylon) turtleneck sweater (had to take out)

Blue short-sleeved cotton blouse (had to take out)

Black & White Forever Scarf (had to take out)

Black (Velvet) Scarf (had to take out)

Lingerie

4 prs. Black tights

Travel blow dryer

Hair spray

Baby wipes

Scissors

Nail care items

Personal care items not allowed on plane (including laundry soap and fluid makeup)

16 packs of personal Kleenex tissue (10 per pack) (packed in inside zipper, on top of suitcase hardware, as well as several grocery bags and a foldable, plastic shopping bag with handles)

Epsom Salt (had to take out)

Delicates laundry bag

Swiss Army Knife

Leather Fanny Pack

BACKPACK CARRY-ON

3 pairs of shoes (5 prs. socks inside shoes)

Travel bedroom slippers

Pajamas

Sleeping mask

Prescription

Magic Marker (to label food in hostel refrigerator)

Flashlight (to use outside and to navigate in the room without waking up roommates)

AAA batteries

3-1-1 personal items

Small lint brush

L’Oreal makeup remover sheets

Non-fluid makeup items

Foot roller (ball)

Travel books/Travel Diary/Pamphlets on new electronics (phone, camera)

Mademoiselle Paris Black Text Fabric Journal by Papyrus.

Mademoiselle Paris Black Text Fabric Journal by Papyrus.

Chargers for cell phones, camera

Pens

Umbrella

Hershey Kisses (had to take out)

TRAVEL HANDBAG

Filofax Daily Planner

Sunglasses

Reading glasses

Make up

Camera

Pocket Tissues

Pen

2 cell phones

WORE ON PLANE:

Black Zella (Polyester/Spandex) Yoga pants

Black tights

Black Ann Taylor (Wool) blazer with pockets

Pringle blue V-neck (Cashmere) sweater

White long-sleeved (Cotton) shirt

Money belt w/money and passport

Purple overcoat (Wool) with black detailing (carried in bag on plane to protect it in overhead bin)

Black (Wool) scarf

Black Earmuffs

Black short booties

Earrings, ring, sports watch that could take abuse

I made sure everything was clean, had buttons and no tears. Glad I checked: I had to have a black short-sleeved turtleneck repaired at the neck, two blouses needed buttons strengthened, and my purple overcoat needed to be dry cleaned. (I cook, I clean, I bake awesome chocolate chip cookies and blueberry scones, but I don’t sew.) Everything else looked great. Note that I didn’t take any extra jewelry; I only took what I wore. Many travel guides recommend that you don’t take extra jewelry that you would regret losing.

Since most of my Hartmann luggage I bought for my overseas trip after I graduated from college had bitten the dust – and I didn’t want to take the luggage piece I took to Moscow because it didn’t handle well – I decided to spend less (a lot less!) on luggage and see what happened. In addition, although I knew my baggage allowance with Turkish Airways (a handbag/purse [or “personal item”, which could also be a laptop case or umbrella], carry on [30 pounds* up to 21.7 inches high] and two checked bags [50 lbs. each, up to 62 inches high]), I wanted to do with less. I set out to buy a travel handbag, a backpack to use as a carry-on, and a small suitcase.  (*Note: This weight may have changed. See Turkish Airlines’ website for luggage allowance. Click here to convert centimeters to inches, or here to convert kilograms to pounds.)

Hugger Backpack by Baggallini Travel Purse.

Hugger Backpack by Baggallini Travel Purse.

I found my travel handbag at The Container Store (Hugger Backpack by Baggallini for $49.00). I love this handbag! It easily drapes over the front of my coat for protection against theft (and is adjustable to fit without a coat), it has lots of pockets that are easily accessible, and is easily cleaned. Perfect!

Next, I went searching for a backpack to use as my carry-on which had lots of compartments, lots of space, was made of durable material, and had zippers that could lock. I found all that I was looking for in a black Ogio backpack at Luggage Center, a local store in my area. The retail price was $79.00, and the proprietor gave me $10.00 off. I was ecstatic: I love all of the compartments and am impressed with the fabric. I looked at backpacks that were twice as much (and more), but this suited my needs perfectly.

Ogio Backpack.

Ogio Backpack.

Finally, I found a 21-inch Samsonite rolling suitcase (wheels are included in the length per TSA Regulations) that had lots of space, an expansion zipper for extra space, a fluid handle that snapped in the “up” or “down” position, and wheels that easily changed direction. Perhaps most importantly, it wasn’t black. The price: Just under $80.00 at Marshall’s. Sold! (Image is approximate.) Why don’t I buy black luggage that I have to check? Because everyone buys black luggage! Black doesn’t show wear and tear as a bright color would, and it looks professional and classy. But what happens if your suitcase gets lost and your identification gets ripped off? While I have always known not to purchase black luggage, this was brought home to me when I once returned to the U.S. from overseas and two out of four of my bags were temporarily lost. The airline employee I dealt with told me what helped them locate my bags was that they were “any color besides black.” He said, “You should see our warehouse: It’s nothing but a sea of black luggage.” My Hartmann luggage was beige parachute nylon with orange trim. They had no trouble locating it, even though both of my identification tags got ripped off of one of them.

Samsonite Spinner

Samsonite Spinner.

I also bought Voltage Valet travel blow dryer and a 220 voltage converter, Lewis & Clark combination locks for my suitcase and backpack. As I’ve already mentioned, only by reading the blow dryer’s box did I understand that while it stated it was for “worldwide use” it didn’t come with converters. I love the blow dryer anyway. It does a great job and weighs just over one pound.

Before packing these new luggage items, I sprayed all of them with fabric protector even though they all seemed to have been chemically treated already. I allowed all three pieces to dry for 24 hours. While the luggage items were drying, I gathered together my wardrobe selections, travel gear. Read future post “Packing Part II: Packing So You Can Find It (For Women)” to find out how I pack.

Salut!

 

 

 

Image of Audrey Hepburn in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” courtesy of Blu-ray. Used by permission.

Voltage Valet Blow Dryer courtesy of Amazon.com, CCBY 2.0.

Hugger Backpack by Baggallini Travel Purse courtesy of The Container Store, CCBY 2.0.

Ogio Backpack courtesy of Ogio.com, CCBY 2.0.

Samonsonite Spinner courtesy of Indulgy.com, CCBY 2.0.

Mademoiselle Paris Black with Text Fabric Journal courtesy of Papyrus.com, CCBY 2.0.