Blogging on Paris for 6 Months: I Never Would Have Known…

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Blogging about Paris has expanded my world in ways I couldn’t have counted on, like introducing me to French pop music. To me, Garou — who’s featured in the YouTube video — sounds like American singer Gordon Lightfoot — with a dash of French soul.

As of yesterday, November 29, I’ve been blogging about Paris for six months. I thought I’d share how my involvement with Paris has helped me, and some of the lessons I’ve learned along the way.

My trip to Paris last year saved my life. I don’t mean to overstate a point, but it is the truth. I’ve been through a great deal — including losing everything I owned prior to 2009 — and I wondered how I would ever “get my groove back.” Devastating pain made me remember what was first important to me, and France was the first thing I ever really cared about as a kid. I always wanted to hear about it, read about it, visit the country — which I first did in 1976 — and eat French food. In fact, the first thing I ever cooked was a crepe. (And I didn’t burn the house down.) With a surprise windfall, I went to Paris last year for a month and decided to write about it. As a result, I have a zest for life that I haven’t had in a long time.

Blogging (and my Paris trip) has opened the door to new opportunities. I discovered TripAdvisor and am now a Top Contributor with over 20,000 readers: My TripAdvisor reviews help to build my brand and give me writing experience. Who would have thought 20,000 people would be interested in what I have to say? Not me! Also, my website/blog has helped me improve my technological skills: I’ve learned about the technical points of digital imaging, become proficient in uploading digital images using a variety of platforms, learned WordPress, and how to use Google Maps and Google Earth (God-sends for anyone trying to immerse themselves in a foreign culture). While it has been challenging, I’ve enjoyed every minute of it. In addition, the devastation I’ve faced plus the challenging, rewarding experience of blogging has opened the door to me being featured in an upcoming issue of “Women of Distinction Magazine.” I am excited and honored to be featured in it.

Blogging well is harder and more time-consuming than I thought. Any writer knows that to write well, one has to read a lot. I’ve generally been an avid reader, but I haven’t been able to read as much as I’d like. Consequently, my writing has suffered: More often than I’d like to admit, the prose has been stuck in my head. I’m going to try writing draft posts on paper like I did before I published: There seems to be something to words flowing from my head to pen to paper that gets my creative juices working. Admittedly, it isn’t just writing that takes an enormous amount of time. Sometimes I have to learn to do something new before using an image. Also, looking for just the right image for a post can set me back, since I’m not satisfied with just any image — it has to be the right one. 

I am immersing myself in French culture and I love it. I don’t want to just help people get to Paris, I also want to educate people on French culture and clarify myths and misconceptions. This means, of course, that I have to first learn (as an example) the origin of the phrase “pardon my French” before uttering a curse word came about before I can write about it. (The phrase evolved in England during the Hundred Years War between England and France in the 13th century: the English blamed all things vulgar as being from France.)

Speaking of the French language: I am so excited to say I’m (finally) learning French! I took French a long time ago (in a galaxy far, far away) and my circumstances at the time conspired to force me to drop it. It is one of the things I regret most about my early life. Immersing myself in French culture helped open this door for me. I found a great workbook (“French” by Danielle de Gregory) and French flash cards (by Quickstudy), and “Learn French With Alexa” videos on Youtube is the final piece of the learn-French trifecta that brings it all together. I previously learned English by phonics; Alexa is just what I was looking for in a French teacher.  She is French and has many years’ experience teaching French. She knows what she’s doing and she’s so funny, too. I also listen to RJM French Radio on the TuneIn radio app to help me learn French. Some of my favorite artists include Garou (oh, my, I love his voice), Celine Dion, Louane (“Jour un”), Johnny Hallyday, (“J’ai oublie de vivre”), and Christine and the Queens’ “Ca ne tient pas debout.” With the release of “La Vie en Rose” in 2008, I already had been introduced to Edith Piaf, one of the greatest French singers ever. French pop music is just as delightful to my ears.

I continue to seek ways to work and live in Paris. My heart and mind are with the victims and their families of the November 13th attacks. People have asked me if I was glad I wasn’t in Paris then; to the contrary, I wish I was there to give comfort and hope where they are needed.

 

Vive la France!

The 45 Best Things To Do In Paris – December 2015

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There’s a lot to do in Paris during the holiday season. Start your planning with Paris Insiders Guide’s recommendations for best things to do in December 2015. Activities include museum exhibits, castles, a recommended restaurant, and of course, Christmas lights.

Source: The 45 Best Things To Do In Paris – December 2015 | Paris Insiders Guide

Paris on a rare snowy day.

Paris on a rare snowy day.

You might think there is less to do in Paris in the winter time, but the only thing you’ll see less of are the long lines to get into museums and monuments. As a general rule, Paris doesn’t get very cold during winter — when I was there in December 2014, the temperature didn’t get much below 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7.2 degrees Celsius). It did rain a lot, however — but that didn’t deter me from enjoying the city. There’s nothing like waking up in Paris to the sound of rain hitting the rooftop and windows.

Here are four activities that caught my eye in The 45 Best Things to do in Paris in December:

Picasso's Guernica will be exhibited at the Grand Palais until February 29, 2016.

Picasso’s “Guernica” will be exhibited at the Grand Palais until February 29, 2016.

1. Pablo Picasso and the Modern Masters at the Grand Palais. Exhibit ends February 29, 2016. Metro: Champs-Elysees Clemenceau. The Modern Masters portion of the exhibit includes works by Roy Lichtenstein, Jasper Johns and Andy Warhol. Click here for the Grand Palais website and to book tickets. Price ranges depending on day of the week.

 

Chateau d'Amboise was a fortress, so it was built 81 meters (about 88.5 feet) high.

Chateau d’Amboise was a fortress, so it was built 81 meters (about 88.5 feet) high.

2. Private Tour: Loire Valley Castles Day Trip From Paris. Choose between two sets of castles (chateaux, or singular, chateau) — Amboise, Checoneau and Chambord, or Villandry, Langeais and Azay le Rideau — and enjoy lunch at an 18th century inn or at the park of Chateau de Langeais. Price varies depending on season and number of people in your party. Click here to book or see availability.

 

Chef Jerome Banctel heads Le Gabriel restaurant.

Chef Jerome Banctel heads Le Gabriel restaurant.

3. Featured Restaurant: Le Gabriel at La Reserve Hotel. The restaurant is headed by Chef Jerome Banctel and features a Japanese-French Fusion menu. The restaurant is located within La Reserve Hotel. Click here for a review by Paris Insiders Guide. Click here to see the rave reviews given by TripAdvisor users. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt.

 

Christmas lights on the Champs-Elysees near the Arc de Triomphe in 2014.

Christmas lights on the Champs-Elysees near the Arc de Triomphe in 2014.

4. The Christmas Lights along the Champs-Elysees are positively beautiful no matter how you view them. Walk arm-and-arm with someone you love and take in the lights. You’ll never be the same.

Please note: It is my information that the Christmas Markets are closed due to the terror attacks in Paris on November 13.

Au revoir. 

 

 

Image of Snowy Christmas at Eiffel Tower by CanStockPhoto. Image of Pablo Picasso’s “Guernica” by Martine, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of Chateau d’Amboise by Christina Hsu, Flickr, CCBY 2.0.  Image of Chef Jerome Banctel by Rota das Estrelas, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of Christmas lights on the Champs-Elysees by Elsa L. Fridl.

 

 

 

 

A Solemn French Influence in the U.S.: JFK’s Eternal Flame

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President John F. Kennedy's Eternal Flame and grave at Arlington National Cemetery.

President John F. Kennedy’s Eternal Flame and grave at Arlington National Cemetery.

Today Americans pause to remember that President John F. Kennedy was assassinated on this day in 1963 while riding in a motorcade in Dallas, Texas. The event is so seared in our memories that most Americans who were alive then remember where they were when they heard the President had been shot.

What many people probably do not know is that JFK’s eternal flame at his grave site in Arlington National Cemetery was requested by his wife, Jacqueline Kennedy, at least in part because of the impression the eternal flame at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe had had on her when she visited France with her husband in 1961. President Kennedy and French President Charles de Gaulle had a good, diplomatic relationship based on mutual respect. Their relationship was further cemented by Mrs. Kennedy, who wowed the French people with her grace, her style, and her ability to speak French fluently. French President de Gaulle was equally impressed: He is said to have told President Kennedy: “Your wife knows more about French history than any French woman.”

The Eternal Flame at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, France.

The Eternal Flame at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, France.

After her husband was killed, Jacqueline Kennedy requested an eternal flame be part of his grave site. There was some resistance to her request, but Mrs. Kennedy was insistent.  The permanent John F. Kennedy Eternal Flame grave site was consecrated and opened to the public on March 15, 1967, which replaced a temporary grave and eternal flame used for Kennedy’s funeral three days after his assassination.

The site was designed by architect John Carl Warnecke, a long-time friend of President Kennedy.

Sadly, tragically, Kennedy was killed on de Gaulle’s 73rd birthday. Kennedy’s eternal flame and death on the French President’s birthday forever link the U.S. and France in friendship and sorrow.

 

Au revoir.

 

Image of JFK’s Eternal Flame and Grave Site by Klinton Smith, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Image of Eternal Flame at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe by Elsa L. Fridl.

References:

“JFK and Jackie’s Secret Life Between the (Book) Covers, ” by Thurston Clarke, blogs.wsj.com, published July 25, 2013, 12:00 P.M. ET. Clarke also wrote “JFK’s Last Hundred Days: The Transformation of a Man and The Emergence of a Great President,” published by Penguin Press, 2013.

“John F. Kennedy Eternal Flame,” by Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Terrorist Attacks in Paris: What Visitors Need to Know

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Following the tragic terrorist attacks of November 13th in Paris, France, About Travel offers specific information and advice for tourists and visitors.

Source: Terrorist Attacks in Paris: What Visitors Need to Know

The Eiffel Tower is lit in France's flag colors of blue, white and red in memory of those slain on Friday, November 13, 2015.

The Eiffel Tower is lit in France’s flag colors of blue, white and red in memory of those slain on Friday, November 13, 2015.

Here is some information and advice from About Travel about traveling to Paris at the present time. I have summarized some points and copied other points in their entirety. If you have any questions about traveling to Paris, please complete my “Contact Elsa” form, and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

The Attacks: Main Facts
Summarizes the where and when of the attacks, police raids and investigation. Most of the attacks occurred in the 10th and 11th arroundissements, not far from the Charlie Hebdo offices.

The Aftermath in Paris: Shock and Mourning
French President Francois Hollande issued a statement in which he called the attacks “an act of absolute barbarism” and promised that “France will be ruthless in its response to [ISIS].”

But he also called for national unity and for “cool heads,” warning against intolerance or divisiveness following the attacks.

In addition, he designated three days of national mourning, so all city and state museums, schools, and public places were closed over the weekend following the attacks.

Tributes, Memorials & City Initiatives
From Monday, November 16 through Wednesday, November 18 the Eiffel Tower will be illuminated with the colors of the French flag — blue, white and red — in memory of the victims.

The city’s Latin motto “Fluctuat Nec Mergitur” — which translates to “Tossed, But Not Sunk” — is on banners all around the city, including the Eiffel Tower.

Getting In and Out of Paris/France
France’s borders have not been closed. Security has been tightened at airports, train stations, and ferry launch points, so expect significant delays.

Companies including Eurostar, EasyJet, Ryanair, Air France, and British Airways have offered free exchanges on tickets for travelers who elected not to travel to or from Paris on the day following the attacks. Call their helplines for more information.

Metro and Public Transportation
All metro, bus, and RER lines in Paris are currently running normally, with the exception of the Oberkampf metro station (line 5) which is closed, and the station St Denis (line 13), closed for security reasons due to a police raid underway in the suburb.

Closures Around the City and Bolstered Security Measures 
During the weekend following the attacks, all city and state-run museums and cultural attractions, including the Louvre, the Palace at Versailles, and the Eiffel Tower, were closed for three days of national mourning.

The Eiffel Tower is again open on Wednesday the 18th of November, after closing for security reasons on Tuesday.

On Wednesday, November 18th, all municipal and state museums and monuments were re-opened, except for the Arc de Triomphe which has not yet announced a re-opening date.

Disneyland Paris also re-opened its doors on Wednesday after a four-day closure. The Versailles palace re-opened on Tuesday, November 17th under tightened security.

Other public city events, including the annual Christmas markets and holiday lights ceremonies, were canceled in the week after the attacks. The holiday markets, including the biggest on the Champs-Elysees, were mostly open as of Wednesday, November 18th. The lit ferris wheel at the Place de la Concorde is also now open.

However, holiday lights ceremonies were postponed or cancelled around the city in the week after the attacks, including the largest lights display scheduled to kick off on the Champs Elysees, which has been postponed until further notice. Check back for updates on whether those will go forward.

In addition, many stores, shops, restaurants and bars across the capital were closed over the weekend following the attacks, in observance of national mourning. These private businesses have been re-opening at their owners’ discretion. Call ahead to verify re-opening dates and times.

For more information on current closures and re-openings of popular attractions, monuments, and museums, see this page at the Paris Tourist Office.

Official Security Advisories 
As this went to press, no advisories against visiting Paris or the rest of France have been issued by the embassies and consulates of English-speaking countries. However, they do advise caution and vigilance.

The American Embassy in Paris published the following advisory to U.S. nationals visiting France on their official website: ” We strongly urge U.S. citizens to maintain a high level of vigilance, be aware of local events, and take the appropriate steps to bolster their personal security, including limiting their movements to essential activity. U.S. citizens are encouraged to monitor media and local information sources and factor updated information into personal travel plans and activities.”  You can read the rest of their advice, including on how to register with the Embassy during your stay (recommended), at their official website.

To find your own embassy or consulate and any safety advisories published there, see this page.

Is it Safe to Visit Paris? Should I Cancel my Trip? 
Personal safety is a highly, well, personal issue, and I can’t offer any hard-and-fast advice on what nervous or anxious travelers should do. It’s entirely normal to feel some apprehension after these events. Consider these points before canceling your trip to Paris.

Security is probably at its highest ever at the moment. 
Despite what you might be reading or seeing on certain cable news outlets, France does take security very seriously, and officials have successfully intercepted and foiled many attacks in the past.

Moreover, following this recent tragedy, Paris is being patrolled by unprecedented numbers of police and military personnel, especially in crowded areas, public transport, and places frequented by tourists, including monuments, museums, markets and large shopping centers. Your risks are probably lower than usual due to these heightened precautions. While government officials acknowledge that more attacks are possible, they are showing extreme vigilance and working their very best to protect the city, its residents, and its visitors.

Read related: How to Stay Safe in Paris: Top Tips
[Elsa’s Note: With the exception of the section included here, all others are a refresher, such as protect yourself against pickpockets.] Especially when traveling alone, avoid areas around metro Les Halles, Chatelet, Gare du Nord and Stalingrad late at night or when the streets appear less than crowded. While generally safe, these areas have at times been known to harbor gang activity or to be the site of hate crimes. In addition, avoid traveling to the Northern Paris suburbs of Saint-Denis, Aubervilliers, Saint-Ouen, etc. after dark. Visitors to the above-mentioned areas may also take precautions by keeping a low profile and by refraining from wearing highly visible jewelry or clothing that identify them as members of a religion or political movement. As this goes to press, antisemitic and other hate crimes have been on the rise in the Paris region, but have largely been perpetrated outside the city walls.

We live in a world of complex risks, and we take those risks constantly. 
Just as you can’t guarantee that getting in your car for your morning commute to work won’t result in a car crash, or that you won’t be a victim of random gun violence at a supermarket, travel carries a degree of risk. The rather sobering truth is that terrorism knows few to no borders in our age: to fear Paris over any other major metropolis is to completely misunderstand how terrorists operate.

Life in Paris must go on…and without your help, it won’t. 
Paris is the number-one tourist destination in the world. The city needs, above all, to heal and rebound from this terrible tragedy, but without the help of tourists who contribute largely to its economic health and vibrancy, it’s not likely to succeed.

 

Vive la France. 

 

Image of Eiffel Tower lit up in blue, white and red by Yann Caradec, Flickr, CCBY 2.0. Images of Memorial at French Embassy by Elsa L. Fridl. “Peace for Paris” by Jackman Chlu, Flickr, CCBY 2.0.

Material adapted from an About Travel email dated November 17, 2015. No copyright infringement is intended. The author only means to share important safety information with travelers.

 

Paris is Filled with Shock and Disbelief — And So am I

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There is dread, but in the face of this dread, there is a nation that knows how to defend itself, that knows how to mobilize its forces. And, once again, will defeat the terrorists.

— French President Francois Hollande, on the terror attacks committed on November 13, 2015.

Click here to read the French President’s full text.

Today I am a writer without words. I am shocked and dismayed over the events that took place in Paris yesterday. I pray for the victims and their families and all French citizens. I commend French President Francois Hollande and his ministers for taking decisive action. He has shown himself to be a true leader of his people. May he continue to be the leader his country so desperately needs in this horrific hour.

 

Au revoir.

Le Capitaine Fracasse: Sumptuous Dinner Cruise on the Seine River

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Chef Martial Enguehard was awarded the title of “Meilleur Ouvier de France” (“One of the Best Craftsmen of France”), so prepare your taste buds to be wowed.

Cruise ships at twilight on the Seine River.

Cruise ships at twilight on the Seine River.

What can’t you wait to do when you visit Paris? See the Eiffel Tower? Attend a show at Moulin Rouge? See the city from a two-tier bus? I couldn’t wait to go on a dinner cruise on the Seine River. I had already been to Paris twice when I last visited, so I had seen many of the typical tourist sites. I wanted to see more of Paris as a local experiences it — and whether it would be like a tourist or a local, I wanted to go on a dinner cruise. I have always loved the water, whether it be in the form of a waterfall, a stream, an ocean or a river — water has always spoken to my soul. What better way to experience the City of Light at night than on a dinner cruise?

I selected Le Capitaine Fracasse (“The Captain Smashes”) because other cruise lines were guaranteed to cost more; I did not know at the time of my booking that I would be dining in the dining room of a “Meilleur Ouvier de France” — One of the Best Craftsmen of France. If perfection has a taste, my meal tasted of it. My three-course meal included a tray of three appetizers, an entree of fish with potatoes in light sauce, a tray of three desserts (a pastry puff was particularly delicious), and wine and Espresso. My ship floated along the Seine as I ate, and I floated with it. The sites lit up at night were just as beautiful as I knew they would be.

Notre Dame is beautiful by day, elegant by night.

Notre Dame is beautiful by day, elegant by night.

Two cautions: Get to the slip early to make sure you can find it (I only did with the help of a French couple who saw my distress, map in hand) and secure a good seat — the line will likely get incredibly long — and remember that there is always the possibility that a large group might book the same night of your romantic dinner cruise. If you don’t like your table and there are tables available, don’t hesitate to ask to be seated elsewhere. I did, and it was no problem.

When I disembarked and started to walk, I felt so alive! I happened to exclaim to no one in particular what a beautiful night it was. The response of a French couple who got off the same dinner cruise: “Of course, you’re in Paris!”

Le Capitaine Fracasse 2-hour Dinner Cruise on the Seine River

Board: Pont de Bir-Hakeim, 75015 Paris, France, near the Eiffel Tower. Boarding times vary by season. Check the website here (translated by Google)  or call ahead. It is best to reserve online and get in line early. Your boarding time will be on your reservation printout.

Metro: Bir-Hakeim, or
RER:    Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel

Cost: 65 euros, “Smashes” Menu: Meal without drinks
75 euros, “Admiral” Menu: Meal with wine
85 euros, “Champagne” Menu: Meal with Champagne

The menu offers a selection of entrees in addition to the other two courses.

Telephone: 01 46 21 48 15

Website: www.croisiere-paris.com (I Googled Le Capitaine Fracasse and clicked on the Translation link in the Search Results to get the best translation, above.)

Le Capitaine Fracasse offers Smartphone apps to serve as your route map with detailed descriptions of the monuments as you pass by them. Click here to see the list of apps.

 

Au revoir!

 

Image of Notre Dame at Night by Marc Soller, Flickr, CCBY 2.0.

 

November 11: Armistice Day (France) & Veterans Day (U.S.)

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General Gourard leads the French Army at Marne during WWI.

General Gourard leads the French Army at Marne during WWI.

Today is Armistice Day in France and Veterans Day in the U.S. It is the day World War I, also called The Great War, ended, at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month of the year in 1918. It was thought to be the war that would end all wars.

The war began over the assassinations of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austria-Hungarian Empire, and his wife by a Serbian nationalist on June 28, 1914, while they were in Sarajevo, Bosnia. This act set off a diplomatic crisis when Austria-Hungary made an ultimatum to the Kingdom of Serbia. International alliances that had formed over previous decades were invoked, and within weeks, the world’s major powers were at war: the Allies (based on the Triple Entente signed on August 31, 1907 between the Russian Empire, France, and the United Kingdom) against the Central Powers of Germany and Austria-Hungary. Conflict soon spread around the world, and Italy, Japan, Romania and the United States later joined the Allies, and the Ottoman Empire and Bulgaria joined the Central Powers. More than 70 million military personnel, including 60 million Europeans, were mobilized in one of the largest wars in history.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe holds the remains of a soldier from World War I.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe holds the remains of a soldier from World War I.

It was also one of the deadliest: although official numbers vary, it is believed that over 18 million people died in the war. France’s casualty rate was approximately 1,737,800, or 4.39% of their population at the time; the U.S. had approximately 117,465 casualties, or 0.13% of the population.

To commemorate the soldiers who made the ultimate sacrifice for their respective country’s freedom, November 11 is a holiday under different names in different countries: In France (as well as the U.K., New Zealand, Belgium, and Serbia) it is Armistice Day; although the U.S. initially marked this day as Armistice Day beginning in 1919, in 1954 it was changed to Veterans Day to include those who served in other wars. Being a special holiday in the nation of France, the French government, many businesses and even some restaurants are closed today. In the U.S., it is a government holiday, with government and banks closed. Both countries hold ceremonies to celebrate this important day.

WWI Memorial in Washington, D.C.

WWI Memorial in Washington, D.C.

Au revoir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Image of General Gourard leading the French Army at Marne, Wikimedia Commons, Public Domain. Image of Tomb of Unknown Soldier by Elsa L. Fridl. Image of World War I Memorial by Victoria Belanger, Flickr, CCBY 2.0.

 

References:

“Armistice Day,” Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0. “Anglo-Russian Entente,” Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0. “Triple Entente,” Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0. “World War I” Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0. “World War I Casualties,” Wikipedia, CCBY 3.0.